First morning in my little farm apartment and I was so looking forward to making a coffee in the Moka pot and just enjoying some toast with fresh jams. So that’s exactly what I did before we headed off at 9:30am to drive over to La Moscadella (Isabella’s property), where she would take us on a loop hike in the hills around the property.
On previous trips, we always have an ‘orientation’ with Isabella that never fails to be informative and different every time. She has such a rich understanding of the local area and Italian culture. This time with her never disappoints as she does her best to prepare you for the week ahead and to take advantage of your time in the area.
Isabella leading us on the hike on a beautiful crisp morning in the Val d’Orcia.
Being the first official activity, everyone was on board and showed up for the hike and talk with Isabella. The weather (forecasted rainy all week) turned out to be so beautiful on this day. Isabella explained to us, as we walked through olive groves, that during the beginning of the pandemic – this is what she did almost every day (as they really weren’t even supposed to leave their houses). But, she could show she was a local and would take her papers with her and say she was checking on her olive groves if any authorities questioned her. What a time to live through, to have to prove you could walk around your property in the fresh air. Also interesting to note, as we walked through a neighboring property of the farmers who have lived and farmed there for generations. She said, NOTHING changed for them during the pandemic. They lived as they had always lived, then and now. They are farmers that just farm olive oil and live off of the production of their own property, with little connection to the outside world.
I had stayed at this property a few years ago for 2 weeks with Dana in the summer of 2019. We had taken this same hike almost early every morning or at dusk. It is so hot in July here, those are really the only times of day that are bearable. Even with having done this same hike so many times, it felt new to me now, in a different season and I learned so many new things just based on the commentary Isabella was providing. She is such a deep thinker and her explanations come from, what feels like the deepest part of her intellect and heart. What she is saying instantly matters to you, because it matters to her. We took this hilly walk at a nice pace and waited for anyone that needed more time. Near the end, as we were running out of time, she asked me to lead the group that was ready to go back to La Moscadella for aperitivos (appetizers). She would stay back and bring those that needed more time.
When we arrived back at La Moscadella, such an incredible display of little ‘light’ appetizers and complementary wines and champagnes were before us. Roy Stowe, who was with us 3 years ago, and couldn’t make it this year – hosted us to this wonderful after-hike tasting. His deposit was going to expire so he asked that it be put towards this experience for the group. It wasn’t even quite noon yet, and next up we had a wine tasting and lunch, but we were all down for this little morning ‘brunch’ before we headed out again. We literally had to be pushed out the door as we were running at least an hour behind as it was just sitting in the sun and enjoying the moments of our first full day together.
We quickly gathered ourselves and caravanned over (in our hiking clothes) to Santa Giulia winery in Montalcino. It was great to not have to get dressed up or change clothes. After a tour of their wine making process, out came the ‘light lunch’ of meats, cheeses, salads, bruschetta, wine tasting, and finished off with Vin Santo and biscotti. I knew this would be coming, so I had a light touch here and at the first event after the hike. You learn after your first trip here, you need to pace yourself, because so much food and drink will be coming at you with every experience, you can burn out early in the week. We just don’t eat and drink at this pace at home, but at the same time, it is so hard to resist once you get here because it all tastes so good and you don’t want to miss out on a thing.
We also had a wine pairing dinner this same night at Daria’s restaurant in Monticchiello. So seriously, it was good we hiked this morning and had some time to go back after the late lunch in order to rest, shower and change for dinner. We all departed around 7:30pm to drive to Daria’s. Every activity – it seems – is about 20-30 minutes away. It could only be about 8 miles, but on the country roads, it takes a bit of time to get there. Also, we were cautioned on the first day, it is hunting season – so go really slow, slow, slow and then slower as you never know what could jump out in front of you. That’s all this granny driver needed to hear to ratchet it down even a few more notches with my speed. This whole week, I was never in a hurry to go anywhere and it worked well for me.
Dinner at Daria’s was just as expected. She always has a great wine pairing dinner that has just the right sized portions and compliment the wine well. It is sad that this year, Daria, wasn’t able to be here personally to explain the wines and the pairings personally. I have seen her do this several times and always learn something new. She’s a classy older Italian woman who has built this business and finally owns her own restaurant. I was so saddened to learn this year that she has advanced lung cancer and it doesn’t look good for her to survive. She has been battling it this last year, but it continues to spread and take a toll on her. I was hoping I would get to see her this night because I had a feeling this would probably be my last opportunity: I hope that is not the case.
One of the highlights of this night was that Carlotta and Marta joined us. They are two former employees of Isabella’s who really were a big part of what made your stay so personalized throughout the week at the farm. They went above and beyond (24 x 7) to attend to your every need and question. They were truly part of the fabric that made this experience so rich. In the pandemic, so many things changed all around with life circumstances, no work, etc. Many had to shift with jobs and schedules and life circumstances changed with aging parents, etc. Part of that outcome is – these two gems are not working for Isabella anymore. It is unthinkable to me. I keep trying to brainstorm, how I can get them back there? But, for now – just to see them on this night – with us again – made it feel just like old times and previous visits to the farm.
Carlotta sat across from me and I told her about my parking ticket in Fiesole. The paper was all in Italian, I had no idea how to pay it. She said, ‘Give me that ticket.’ She walked away, came back. Then she got on her phone and paid it for me through an Italian app. She said by paying it within 5 days you get 30% off. So that was great news. I paid Carlotta cash, and felt relieved that was taken care of for me. Another reminder for me, that it is incredibly helpful when you visit a foreign country, to have these types of contacts and people that will take such good care of you. It helps relieve the stress of the every day activities, you really aren’t able to manage on your own, like paying a parking ticket on an Italian app.
I was the driver for my little carpool of Heidi and Jeff, so I was truly mindful all week of how much I was drinking. It was their first trip to Italy, and the honeymoon they didn’t get to have a year ago, so I was enjoying watching them indulge. Also, I was super grateful that they were with me as Carla couldn’t come. Something about my struggles in my first week in Fiesole with the car situation, and wanting someone there for you, made me appreciate their company even more. They are both so good natured it was easy to be with them for a week. I really haven’t been around Heidi in 20 years, but grew up with her – so there is something so familiar about her to me. Something long ago from my past. My childhood best friend’s little sister – who always wanted to play with us – or was trying to listen to us and possibly tattle if we didn’t let her join in on what we were doing. Back then, we continually put her through initiations to join made up clubs and she would give it her ALL to join and we would still sometimes reject the application, unless she made a scene, then we would let her join. ‘Don’t cry, okay, it’s fine, you can join.’
On this night, we walked back to the car and laughed all the way down the hill. Jeff kept saying he ‘had to go.’ So we said, “Well then ‘go’ – we’ll wait.” And off he ran to the bushes and went while Heidi and I waited in the car and laughed. Once he was done, he ran back to the car, ‘Ah, so much better.’ Both Heidi and I looked at each other probably thinking the same thing, ‘Gee, men have it so easy in these situations.’ We made it home by 11pm – a very full and satisfying first day!