Breakfast Pastries and Afternoon Naps: Living Our Best Sicilian Lives

Date: November 20
Location: Taormina, Sicily
Weather: Sunshine with a daytime high of 64 degrees, showers at night

Carlotta and Marta had big plans for the morning: an early dip in the Ionian Sea. Living in Tuscany – basically the middle of Italy – they never pass up a chance to be near the ocean. They wanted the exhilarating shock of a cold morning swim. Meanwhile, Carla and I wanted the exhilaration of sleeping in. Still adjusting to the time zone, these slower mornings have felt like a gift – especially knowing that next week in Tuscany will be very full.

By the time we emerged from our rooms, the girls were already off on their seaside adventure. Carla and I headed into town – literally footsteps from our door – back to the café she had visited on our first morning. We ordered our coffees, and somehow I heard myself saying, “Yes, I’ll take the giant chocolate croissant,” while Carla chose an equally enormous sugar donut.

What is happening to us? It’s only Day Three.

I swear tomorrow will be different. (Probably.)

It was wonderful to sit in the café and listen to a table of French tourists next to us chatting away – one of the best parts of Europe is the international chorus of voices. We people-watched happily, especially noting the woman behind the counter greeting every male customer with the customary kiss on each cheek. Then her boss -possibly boyfriend – came up behind her and blew in her ear. She caught my eye, and I just winked as if I’m in the know and this is all normal.

I quickly concluded she receives more affection in 10 minutes at work than I’ve seen in 30+ years at mine.

After our people-watching session, we wandered down the other end of the main shopping boulevard, where we browsed beautiful shops and picked out treasures small enough to make the journey home.

One stop was a chocolatier, staffed by enthusiastic young men carrying trays of treats like Sicilian Willy Wonkas. They ushered us from one sample station to the next, offering cookies, chocolates, and sweets faster than pre-COVID Costco free samples. It felt like a delightful, sugar-fueled route straight to diabetes.

(For the record, we only tried two tiny samples—but still.)

All that sweetness made me crave something savory. We considered a seaside lunch until I saw the price: 40 euros for a little plate of calamari. Even in vacation-euphoria mode, I could not justify that. Instead, we found a small salami shop just a few doors from our Airbnb.

In my extremely broken Italian, I asked for two sandwiches with salami and cheese. Another woman in the shop tried to help, gently offering “formaggio” in case I needed support. One thing I love about Italy: if you attempt even 1% of their language, the whole room rallies behind you. They are so kind and so patient.

We bought our sandwiches, some chips, and a Schweppes lemon soda – Carla has suddenly become obsessed with these, a throwback to her childhood – and all of it cost only 12 euros. We felt like savvy locals with our humble lunch sack. We returned to our private terrace to enjoy the sunshine.

After lunch, the sleepiness hit. It was around 2 p.m., and I suggested naps – something unheard of at home, but deeply necessary here. Carla immediately agreed: “Absolutely, I’m all in on naps. I’m boring like that.”

I told her it wasn’t boring – it was essential, given the stress of life leading up to this trip.

So we headed to our rooms. Carlotta and Marta were still somewhere on the island, exploring beaches and getting lost in the mountains. I loved the freedom of everyone getting to do what made them happy.

Two hours later, I forced myself upright (as I could have kept sleeping) and checked on Carla in the other room, who was also waking up. We sat and chatted about how liberating naps can be. She told me she has a friend who says, “I’m taking to my bed,” as if she were some Victorian invalid. That’s what we did today – took to our bed – except by choice, and with great enthusiasm.

Carlotta and Marta returned around 5 p.m., eager for a quick jacuzzi soak before dinner. After their showers, they mobilized with their signature speed and made us a wonderful meal of sausages in tomato sauce with a crisp salad. Over wine, they told us stories – hilarious, chaotic, unrepeatable stories – of the wildest situations they’ve handled over the years with guests. Everything from rescuing people from ditches to dealing with… things that belong in an underground Italy tell-all.

After dinner, we cleaned up and the girls headed upstairs for bed after their long day. Carla and I camped out in my room to watch a few episodes of Landman. We turned it off at 11 p.m., hoping for a decent night’s sleep.

Tomorrow we’re heading to Messina and Forza d’Agrò – the filming location for many of The Godfather’s Sicilian scenes.