Oct 23 – Tuesday – Central Hong Kong and Kowloon

Before we left on the trip, the ladies came to my house for dinner to discuss the trip. We thought we would have plenty of time before the trip to squeeze a dinner in, and when it came down to it, it was a last minute stretch to even get the 4 of us together for a few hours. That is the pace we were all running at before we left.

Thank goodness we did squeeze the dinner in though, as Amy T had thoughtfully prepared 4 different day itineraries for us to consider while we were in Hong Kong. She organized it by areas of town to make it the most efficient use of our time. We reviewed these over dinner and all agreed they looked like great suggestions.

So on this day we would be following the activities she had suggested in the ‘Central Hong Kong’ and ‘Kowloon’ itineraries. Central is probably the most urban, hip and trendy part of town on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon is on the mainland. We started the morning with a taxi ride over to meet Shelly and Amy T at Hopewell Center, which is the same area where we had the foot massages the night before.  Below is a quick video I took on the ride over. This was very typical of all of my taxi rides in Hong Kong. The driver would usually have a news channel playing. Also, note the driver side in Hong Kong is on the right side of the car.

You see this sign in the back of every cab in Hong Kong. They take safety seriously and expect that you buckle your seat belt or you may be fined or the driver has the right to refuse to drive you.

We agreed to meet at a Starbucks which also had a raw juice place close by for healthy shots to get our day started. Amy B and I got there first and it was actually a Starbucks reserve so I ordered a macchiato while Amy B went to find the raw juice bar (of course), ha, ha. She came back with a raw juice, chia pudding breakfast and some granola peanut butter breakfast balls. I had a few of the breakfast balls, they were so good and tasted like cookies. I was thinking as I was eating them, ‘wow, can this really be healthy?’

Barista at the Starbucks Reserve.
How they served my macchiato. It came with a little cup of water and a chocolate.

Shelly and Amy T show up and they say they had already experienced a full day before they even got to us. Neither of them slept well because Shelly picked up something on the way over with all of the coughers on the plane and little sleep. She now was in the early stages of a cold and cough and it was tough for her to sleep the night before as it was for Amy T. They also were getting adjusted to the new time zone, so they were up very early.

As they said, they had a whole day they had lived before they met us at 10:30am. Shelly also relayed a story about a LARGE water bottle she accidentally launched down a long MTR escalator this morning to the HORROR of all of the commuters on the escalator with her. She said it just kept tumbling like a slinky down the escalator to the shock and awe of everyone else. We were all laughing about it then, but in the moment, Shelly assured us, none of the commuters thought this was funny. Amy T also had a water spill on her white pants (thank goodness it was only water), but was now walking around with somewhat wet clothes. They were both in good moods though and positive that the rest of this day would be much better!

After we all finished with coffees and chia and health shots, we headed off to Wan Chai for a walk through the Wet Market. ‘Wet Market’ in Hong Kong refers to markets which sell just about everything – old school style. You can get everything from fruit and vegetables to meat, to live fish, to flowers. And when I say meat, I mean meat – all parts of meat including the stomach, head, organs, etc. and they are all on display. Also, there are many different types of animals such as chickens, snake, and pork. The fish selection is also extensive including live fish and crabs in tanks with barely enough water to cover them. We even saw  a few flop out and the person standing by would kick it aside casually while they helped the current customer and then flop it back in after the customer left.

View of vendor in Wet Market with fish for sale.
View of supply store in the Wet Market area. All stores in Hong Kong seem to be packed to the gills like this with capacity on space very limited.
Fresh produce in the wet market.
Amy T, me, Shelly in the wet market in front of a meat vendor.

This was a great place to take photos. It first hit me now, the irony. Usually the cliche is visiting Asians in the US with cameras taking photos of everything. And now here the tables were turned, and it was me a Caucasian in Asia with a big Canon strapped around my neck. Amy T also enjoys photography and has a big camera. So we made quite a pair, looking like journalists combing the streets with our big DSLR cameras. I really appreciated that she was into photography also because she continually weaved in ‘this is a great place for photos’ into our daily adventures

In a true unplanned ‘twinning’ day, that occurred on Thursday, Amy T and I showed up in similar shirts, with similar bags, holding our similar cameras.

Then you had Shelly and Amy B just using their iPhones, and wouldn’t you know, many times at the end of the day when we were all reviewing photos, I would think ‘Wow, they got the best pics!’ Go figure.

Shelly’s stellar iPhone pose. She really captured some great pics!

We then rode a double decker trolly car up to the Central area and walked around a bit looking up and down the different streets before we decided we were all a little hot and hungry for lunch. Amy T’s husband had recommended a Brazilian BBQ place that wasn’t too far so we walked there. Walking around using Google Maps is a bit of a challenge here as Google Maps doesn’t do a great job of orienting you or following your location. It can make finding places a little tough.

Waiting for the double-decker trolly car.
Sitting on top and up front on the double-decker trolly. Amy T and Shelly were always great to insist we sit up front for the best views.

Finally we found the Brazilian BBQ place and were THRILLED that it was cooler inside, but probably still not cool enough for Amy T and Shelly who were hot and also now fighting the fatigue of jet lag as they had been up so early. I talked to them about how a Brazilian BBQ place works with meat that keeps coming until you say you are done. We also all ordered Caipirinhas – a Brazilian drink made of Cacacha (a alcohol distilled from sugar cane, like rum). What I LOVED about these is that they came with real sugar canes in them. I didn’t realize what it was sticking out of my drink until I tasted it and then I thought ‘Oh fresh sugar cane, where have you been? I have missed you!’ I don’t think I’ve had sugar cane since I was in elementary school. Where do you even buy sugar cane at home. Feeling like I need to now add it to my weekly grocery list.

Me, thrilled with the sugar cane they put in my Caipirinha. They were serving a special ginger/mango version. I asked for it with no added sugar and it was so delicious – even without any added sugar.

We all enjoyed this lunch thoroughly and probably overate. Shelly and I were talking several hours later, still not hungry, that we missed the feeling of being hungry and wondered if it would ever return. Still, we didn’t mind that we kept saying yes, to more delicious meet and Brazilian Cheese bread, as it was all so delicious and our server was a Brazilian and fun to talk to as we asked him questions about how he ended up in Hong Kong from Brazil.

Parting shot by the elevator of the Brazilian BBQ place where we had lunch.

After lunch we toured around Central and SoHo (name is dirived from its location south of Hollywood Road) district. Amy T showed us all of the ‘hot spots’ and took us on the mid-level escalators which are the longest covered escalators in the world. The now vibrant character of SoHo is attributed to the creation of this escalator system in 1993. This part of town seemed very fun and trendy with cool shops, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, art galleries, and antique stores all around you.

Amy B, Amy T, and Shelly on the Central-Mid-Levels escalator. The world’s longest outdoor covered escalator system. The area along side these escalators is lined with restaurants, bars, and shops.
And here’s a shot of me, your favorite blogging photographer, riding the escalators and you see the view from the opposite direction of the above picture.

This is the hot spot at night because of the restaurant scene. It is an intoxicating mix of old buildings, colors, little ally ways, and bustling City.  Also the sidewalks here are so very uneven. I kept telling myself, I am constantly one step away from another doozy of an ankle sprain – be careful. A few times I would trip and Amy B would look at me with big eyes as if to say, ‘oh gosh, be careful.’

Well, what do you know, we found Amy’s shop. But, which Amy? Ha, ha. Also note it says Amy Shop. Does that mean Amy should shop here?
View of the ladies on one of the streets in the Central district.
Amy B and me in front of the most recognizable and photographed examples of street art in Hong Kong. This was done by a local graffiti artist and is a colorful mural of old townhouses that was originally commissioned for a store around the corner.
Another famous photography spot in Central Hong Kong.

There was an Anthony Bourdin travel special on Hong Kong that we all watched before we left and he spent a lot of time in this part of town highlighting the unique areas of this part of town. I feel like Amy T did a really good job to make sure we saw them all, including a visit to a street with the famous street food stalls that also provides little makeshift tables where you can eat. The kitchen set-ups were very old school and hodge podgy, but it seemed to be hopping with lots of business. The sizzling dishes, the clatter, the aromas, the crowds, are apparently all part of one of the best food experiences you can have in Hong Kong. Too bad we were all too full from Brazilian BBQ to try one of these food stalls. But really, it was okay with me. I’m always leary to try anything from any food stall in any foreign country. Probably 95% of the time, you’d be okay. But oh that 5% when it hits you and you go down with violent food sickness, not something I’m willing to risk on vacation. It happened to me ONCE in 1991 and let’s just say, I will never forget!

The view down almost any street was a feast for the eyes, with so much to take in. I also kept noting how clean this City was. Amy T said everyone works to keep it clean. You will often see elderly sweeping the sidewalks on the streets.
Backside of a kitchen for a street food stall.

When then walked towards the ferry building so that we could take a ferry across the Harbour to view the Hong Kong Island skyline. Before we hit the ferry building, there was a really neat little courtyard for people watching and resting. So we spent about 20-30 minutes there just enjoying the scene and watching the locals.

Courtyard where we chilled and people watched for a bit.
Amy, just chilling and me practicing my photography composition skills.

We then walked towards the ferry building and my eyes soaked in the sights along the way. A very cool Apple Store on an overpass, what looked like a food festival under tents (think Taste of Newport), a big Ferris wheel, and my favorite, a little Hong Kong man street musician belting out ‘It never rains in California.’ It’s amazing that as far away from home as we were, Amy B and I felt like it never felt too different too us. It all felt oddly familiar. I think it is a combination of it being very modern here in many ways, being exposed to a lot of Asian culture in California throughout our lives, having visited other big Cities, and experiences like this where a street musician is actually singing a song about where I’m from – Southern California.

A big fancy Apple Store on an overpass near the Ferry Building.
The Hong Kong Observation Wheel is a 197-foot tall Ferris wheel located at the Central Harbourfront, Central, Hong Kong. It has 42 gondolas including one VIP Gondola with leather seats and a clear glass bottom floor. All gondolas are equipped with air conditioners and communication systems. Each ride includes two to three spins and takes about 15 minutes. Each gondola can seat a maximum of eight people, other than the VIP Gondola which can seat 5 people.

It was a quick 15 min Ferry Ride over to what they call the Kowloon side of Hong Kong which is on the mainland and also is the body of land that connects to China. From this side of Hong Kong, you can look back at the Hong Kong Island skyline and it absolutely blows you away with the immensity of it. It feels like you are looking at a skyline that is 5x the size of the New York skyline. Many of these buildings feel bigger than anything I’ve ever seen. We got there at about dusk so it was nice to see the buildings light up. They are also super creative in how they light up buildings, I saw all sorts of things – everything from what looks like text messages scrolling up these 120 level buildings, to the time of day displayed, to moving images of Pandas. It feels like there is always something to look at on the buildings.

Amy T and I in front of the skyline. Only able to capture about 1/5 of it in this shot.
Another view of the skyline of Hong Kong Island.
Tri-pod self-timer success!

Amy T had told me to bring my tripod so that I could practice getting some nice evening shots of the skyline using a shutter exposure. I took several, it is so hard to get everything just right. My favorite were pictures I took were of the ‘Junk Boats’ with the red sails moving past us. They seem like such a contrast out of a different era, against the outrageously modern skyline. ‘Junk Boats’ are traditional Chinese fishing vessels which have been around since the 2nd Century A.D. Their red sails made a beautiful reflection on the water. It was so peaceful to watch them float past us. The weather here has also been really wonderful and not too hot, but made for nice balmy evenings, no jackets required and no rain.

One of my favorite pictures of the trip. A view of a Junk Boat sailing in front of the skyline.

We decided then to head over to the Ritz Carlton ‘Ozone’ bar in this part of town. It boasts the highest views of the Hong Kong and is supposedly the Highest Bar in the World. On our way to grab a cab, there was this little ice cream truck where this little old man was serving soft serve ice cream cones. I thought that was awesome and he had a very hot business going with a long line going. I have never seen a little Ice Cream car that actually serves soft serve vanilla cones. Another line I noticed was for a bus. It is amazing that they all lined up single file to wait for the bus and know to board in order. It’s like an extended Southwest boarding line, only no one gave out any numbers, they just follow their arrival order.

Loved this little old man serving up soft serve ice cream ‘Mobile Softees’ was the sign on his truck. On a balmy night, this seemed like the perfect refreshing treat. This is some street food, I’d be willing to risk trying.

We took the cab over to the Ozone Bar and I want to say we pressed something outrageous like the 118th floor to get to the top. Your ears definitely popped on the ride up. It was a little bit of a hazy night from up there so it was hard to see much in detail. Also, there was no place to sit with a view. The decor also seemed kind of Vegas, in that it was extremely ornate and glitzy. It was fun to come up and see the view from here, but really about now all we were thinking about was just getting foot massages again to end the night verses trying to find a table in the crowded bar and having a drink up here.

View from the Ozone Bar on the 118th Floor of the tallest building in Hong Kong. It is claimed to be the ‘Highest Bar in the World.’

We hopped right on the Metro adjacent to the Ritz, which also goes underwater, so we were able to easily and quickly get back to Hong Kong Island near our hotels and the foot massage place. Amy B was a little hungry as it was now 8:30pm. The rest of us had consumed tons of meat at the Brazilian restaurant and were still digesting. We decided I would go with Amy B while she grabbed a quick bite and Amy T and Shelly would get going ahead of us to the foot massage place. They were looking to have 75 minute foot massages tonight and Amy and I were good with 50 minutes. That gave Amy B and me a 25 minute cushion ahead to meet up with them again. Also, Shelly had been a trooper all day and stayed energetic and present in all that we were doing, but her cough sounded like it was getting much worse, so probably best for her to get her foot massage and get to bed as soon as possible.

We covered a lot of ground on this day. Here are 6 of the 8 tired feet ready for a good foot massage.

When we arrived at the foot massage place, Amy T and Shelly were already in the same chairs and in the same room we were in the night before. Shelly literally looked conked out sleeping, and Amy T was raising her eyebrows at me motioning for me to check my phone that she was texting me. Her text read ‘My lady keeps falling asleep. Not sure what to do?’ I looked over and it did look like her lady was dozing. Then we both started giggling at absurdity of it.

I looked down at my massage lady that had just arrived and she put a finger condom on her pointer finger. Hmm, not sure why that might be necessary? Then Amy B’s massage lady arrived next to mine. And from the MOMENT she arrived, mine would NOT stop talking to the other massage lady. It sounded like angry talk, as if they were on a break and complaining about their bosses in the break room. And the look on my lady’s face was that of one who is all depressed. It was like watching a Hong Kong soap opera. At one point Amy T texted me jokingly, ‘Get your woman under control.’ As she was disrupting the quiet bliss of the dark room we had experienced the night before. I started laughing at the absurdity of all of it imagining just how was I going to do that?

My lady was real angry and seemed to be taking it out on my massage, but she wasn’t hurting me. She was just more very distracted and didn’t seem to have a plan with the foot and calf massage like the massage person the night before. In fact all of the massage ladies tonight seemed not on top of their game. Amy T and I continued to text and laugh, Shelly was knocked out, and Amy B was resting in her seat next to me with her eyes closed. It had been a very full day, so even not the best massage ladies served a good purpose to help all of us relax, if only mine wasn’t talking in an angry voice for all of the 50 minutes. Amy T’s continued to keep falling asleep, making bodily sounds, and kneading her calf in the oddest way. I got the giggles at the absurdity of the whole scene tonight and at one point couldn’t stop laughing. It was the ONE time my massage lady stopped talking to look at me to make sure I was okay. I think she thought I was crying.

View of my hot mess, sad and angry foot massage lady. You can see Shelly passed out sleeping on the other side in the background.

Well, when all was said and done, we each paid for our massage and tipped our ladies modest amounts. Each one stands by the door waiting for a tip after you pay for your massage. It is a humble posture and you feel bad for complaining about any of it. After all, who would want this job to rub people’s feet all day long and then to have to wait around for your tip. I had so much compassion for all of them in that moment. It actually made me want to tip so much more, but I now knew the difference between a good experience here and one that was mediocre and left the tip as-is as I didn’t want to reinforce a mediocre job with a good tip.

The four of us said our goodbyes after that, they went to their hotel and we went to ours. When Amy B and I got back to the room 10:30pm we were thinking this had been a long day and we wanted to sleep in a little tomorrow and got to the Hong Kong History Museum, to make a bit more of a mellow day. I also was hoping to watch a bit of the World Series game that would be on in the morning and try to get caught up with a little more blogging. Amy T and Shelly were good with that, and rest for Shelly and a good nights sleep would be important for her and for all us.

I was mesmerized by this bottle display in a restaurant on the walk to the foot massage place.

I appreciate that Amy T and Shelly were super accommodating the whole trip to our schedule and whatever we wanted to do at whatever time. It was really nice to feel we could see a lot and to also be able to rest when needed. I couldn’t afford to come home sick or tired as I would need to hit it hard at work as soon as I got home.

Oct 22 – Monday – Good Morning Hong Kong

Woke up this morning to a beautiful skyline view of Hong Kong mainland. We are staying on Hong Kong Island. Before I came here, I had no sense of either or that there are many islands off the coast of Hong Kong mainland. But I’m learning a lot about this country on this trip. That is one of the best parts about traveling. Learning about new cultures and feeling so curious about how they live.

View from our room. Looking at mainland Hong Kong from Hong Kong Island (where we are staying.)

When I woke up, I went up to the breakfast on the 40th floor, and found a great place to look at the view and blog. The breakfast level itself with teaming with so many people, it didn’t at all seem relaxing to me, so I went up the stairs to a more private area and it was perfect and peaceful and it was nice to have some stillness to blog and reflect before we met up with our friends for the day.

Shelly and Amy Temple flew in the night before and we figured they may need more rest this morning so we got a little bit of a late morning start, which was totally fine with us. After the 7:30am starts of the Israel trip, we were happy for more restful mornings and days up to this point.

Amy and I were excited to see some sights in Hong Kong.  We left the hotel in our first Hong Kong Taxi a little after 11am headed towards our meet-up spot in ‘Times Square.’ Hong Kong is like England and Indonesia where they drive on the other side of the road. So happy to be in the back of a cab and not having to drive myself around. The little red cabs are all very clean and it is an ‘offense’ to not have your seatbelt on. He pulled up to Times Square and we popped out. We had no idea if this was Times Square but just assumed, as it seemed like the end of our ride. There were all kinds of Mickey Mouse statues in the square, we walked around a little bit and then saw them in a distance. They looked cute in two little dresses and sandles and how fun to meet up with other friends so far away from home.

Amy Temple had lived here for 2 years with her husband and daughter and left about 2 years ago. She was going to be our guide the next several days. What a relief to have someone ask us what we want to see and set up the itineraries for each day. She knows how to get around easily on the public transportation system that includes mini-buses, big double-decker buses, trolley cars, underground trains, ferries and all kinds of boats. You buy what they call an “Octapus Card” and load it with money and it gets you on and off any transit without having to deal with cash and change. It is very convenient. You can also use the card to pay at many stores in town.

The big convenience store in Hong Kong is 7-11. You can do many transactions there, buy stamps, fill up your Octapus Card, etc. You see them on every corner. It is much like how you see Tobacconist shops in Italy everywhere. It is so weird to see so many 7-11’s everywhere. It feels out of place.

Our first stop was going to be to what they call the Southside in Repulse Bay. This was the area of town that Amy T lived, so she was quite familiar with the highlights. We took a mini-bus #40 about halfway there. These mini-buses are fascinating. They seat only about 19 passengers and no standing. Shelly was quickly reminded by an older woman across the aisle from her to not drink the water bottle she was holding and to fasten her seatbelt. Shelly says she is a magnet for extra instruction anywhere she travels. People feel compelled to tell her what she can and can’t do. Taking a queue from what Shelly was being told, I quickly buckled my seatbelt.

Our first stop was for coffee. We sat in a coffee shop in a really pretty shopping area and chatted. We heard the horrors of their story flying over the day before. Bottom line, don’t fly Delta unless you want to get bumped from the premium economy seat you paid for because they changed the plane they were flying over and had less premium economy seats. They also split them up and put one of them way in the back of the plane of a middle seat. Fortunately, they were able to find seats together, but this made for a stressful start to the trip. Oh, and also, Delta also didn’t order their gluten-free meal, but recommended they could have all of the ice-cream and gluten free crackers available on board for the 11 hour flight that was stopping in Japan. Huh? Yah, don’t fly Delta. They said, eventually this story will maybe be funny, but not quite yet. They were troopers were being so cheery already on this morning.

We then walked down to Repulse Bay, which is a hot spot for Chinese tourists. There were tour buses everywhere and it was teaming with Chinese tourists. We were hungry after walking around Repulse Bay for a while so I found a restaurant called, Limewood. It looked like it had good options, nice ambiance, and it had great reviews. While the food was indeed good, it took over an hour for Amy’s ‘long line fish’ to arrive. And that was only after we complained. They kept saying it takes 20 minutes, we said…um, it’s been an hour. I asked to speak to a manager and she told me, it takes 20 minutes, but realized it has been a long wait so she said she would take something off of our bill for our long wait. In the end, she took an $8 appetizer off of the bill. Huh? We actually knew what went wrong, a couple that was sat a least a half hour  after us, was brought the exact same fish Amy had ordered around the time they were bringing the rest of OUR food. They had put her fish at the wrong table and didn’t realize their mistake. That couple was even LONG GONE by the time Amy’s fish finally came. To them, them must have walked out of there thinking, WOW, awesome service – food arrives 5 minutes after we order. To us, well, there is a 1-star Trip Advisor review coming their way soon!

After lunch, we. boarded a double decker bus and sat up on top in the very front. That was quite a wild ride as many branches would hit the front window on the side Amy B was on and would startle all of us. They had a severed Typhoon here a few weeks ago, so there are a lot of broken trees in the area that haven’t been cleaned up yet.

Double-decker style bus.

Once we arrived, we walked around the Stanley Plaza area for a while. Really nice shops and food markets that we browsed through.  It also had what is called the Stanley Market – a quick trip through what is essentially a flea market for tourists. As flea markets go, it was pretty fancy. But, as with all flea markets, I’m never drawn to buy a thing.

Amy B, Amy T, and Shelly posing on the waterfront in Stanley.
Pretty yellow building in Stanley.
Stanley Beach

After we were done, we took another double-decker bus back to Arberdeen Harbour. It was fun to see so many different style boats floating past us from so many different periods of time. One little boat caught my attention, he was trying to talk to me as he wanted to take the four of us on a Harbour Tour. In the end, we decided to take his tour.

Shelly and I in front of Aberdeen Harbour before we took our boat tour.
Boats in Victoria Harbour.

He was so cute and did a great job, he had a special seat and a microphone and he ‘narrated’ the whole ride around the Harbour. It was a crack up because we couldn’t really understand him, but he was so sincere you just looked at him and nodded your head every once in a while so he felt like you were tracking with his tour.

Our little boat tour guide and the boat we toured the Harbour on.

He really didn’t need to say a thing, it was so beautiful at dusk to boat up and own the Harbour looking at all types of boats. The lights on the skyline were spectacular and the weather was perfect. He even took us up close to the famous floating restaurant. Now THAT is a gaudy spectacle to be seen!

Big floating restaurant in Arberdeen Harbour.

After the tour we were hungry, it was getting quite late around 7:30pm, so we did a quick dinner at a great burger place Amy Temple knew about. I decided to have another beer. I tried their local IPA. I loved it, what has gotten into me? While we were eating dinner, Amy Temple asked if we wanted foot massages tonight, she knew a good place. So we all said, ‘Yes, please’ to that and she booked us 8:30pm appointments and asked for a private room. Wow. Okay.

Hamburger dinner before foot massages.
Escalators in the MTA for our ride over to the foot massage place.

Once we got to the foot massage place, they gave Amy and I shorts to change into (as we both were wearing jeans). Then they sat us in this dark room with 6 recliners – 3 on each wall facing each other. We had picked a 50 minute foot massage. They also had a 75 minute option. But neither Amy nor I could imagine we could sit still for a 75 minute foot massage, and I actually don’t have much foot to massage. So the 4 of us sat in the private room with each of us having an attendant to massage our feet for 50 minutes. They started with putting your feet in warm water, I think that alone (after we walked around all day) would have been worth the money. Only a loud belch from one of the attendants pierced the silence. We all looked at each other as if to say with our eyes, did that just happen? We looked over to Amy T and she nodded, yes. She explained later, in this culture it is considered unhealthy to keep any gas inside out of either end. So we were lucky it was only a belch. Regardless, we loved the foot massages.  It’s not expensive at all to do this and it is a ‘thing’ to do in Hong Kong, there are foot massage places everywhere.

View of Amy T and Shelly sitting across from Amy B and I at the foot massage place.

We pretty much all almost fell asleep, it was blissful. They end the night with a 5 minute neck and shoulder massage. How could you say no to wanting this every night? We all agreed we would be back. After massages it was almost 10pm, so we all headed back to our hotel ready to crash for the night. Amy T had a full day planned for us on Tuesday!

Oct 21 – Sunday – Last Day in Bali, Travel to Hong Kong

Our last morning in Bali was a brilliant and sunny day. My plan was to watch as much of the Dodger game as possible before Amy woke up. This was the BIG GAME 7, and it was hard to think about missing any of it until they at least had a comfortable lead. By the time Amy was up and ready to go, the Dodgers were ahead 2-1. She was fine with me bringing my audio ear buds and my cell phone so that I could listen on the way to breakfast. I only had one ear bud in on the walk to town so I could chat and listen.

The sky was so blue on this day it made the water even more blue. It was beautiful and none of this was lost on me, even as I listened to the game on the walk.

The color of the water on the final morning that we walked up to breakfast.

We made it back to our favorite breakfast spot. Hey, why stop a good thing now? This place had been killing it for us so far. Today I also ordered the colorful Dragon Bowl and was absolutely so delicious. I will never forget when Amy was ordering I was listening to the game and I could hear the announcer call the Puig’s home run that put the Dodgers on top for good. I was so thrilled when he hit that home run and was cheering from my seat, even as the waitress just looked at me as Amy was making her order.

This was my ‘happy the Dodgers are winning’ smile.
Final breakfast, one of their health bowls with dragon fruit.

I then started streaming the game and put my little phone up at the table. Amy was so great, she didn’t mind at all and was also enjoying watching the game. We got to the bottom of 8th inning through breakfast and were ready to make the 10-15 walk back to our room to start packing. On the walk back to the room, I walked faster than I have the whole trip as I wanted to see the final outs and watch the Dodgers clinch the National League Pennant. We made it, and I saw it, and I was so very thrilled.

My phone rigged up on the table at breakfast.

While we were packing to leave, our absentee personal concierge called to tell us that she investigated what happened with our late pick-up to the St. Regis the evening before. The St. Regis wanted to apologize and offered to send a private luxury car to take us to the airport at 1:30pm. This sounded great to us as it would have cost us $35-$40 dollars. Our flight was at 4pm, and they recommended we get there at least 2 hours in advance.

View in front of one of the lagoon pools on the walk back to our room.

When the St. Regis driver arrived, in the seat between us there were fresh cold waters, 2 boxes of Macaroons, and an apology note to Mr. and Mrs. Richardson. My first thought was seriously, hmm, this is a note for my parents. LOL! Okay, well, at least they were above and beyond trying to make it up to us.. It actually was very sweet of them to be so apologetic over a 25 minute wait. They more than made up for the experience and left me with a positive impression of both the St. Regis and the Laguna Resort where we stayed. It just goes to show you, mistakes happen, but how you handle them, can make all the difference in the experience the customer has.

View of note and little boxes of macaroon treats in our car to the airport.

We were at the airport by 2pm and quickly dropped our bags off and made it through the security line. So we had a good 90 minutes before we needed to board the plane. One of my credit cards gives me access to ‘premiere lounges’ around the world, so we went up to the more private lounge that offered food and 3 drinks each. Can’t even imagine downing 4 drinks in 90 minutes. If we had 3 drinks each they’d have to carry us onto the plane. Amy decided on water and I decided to have one last Bintang Beer for the road. Who knows, maybe beer is a new thing for me now.

Waiting in the airport lounge with my one beer for the road.

The flight to Hong Kong was 5 hours. I watched a few movies and was more than ready to get off of the plane when we landed in Hong Kong. The guy on the end of our row never got up. So we basically felt ‘stuck’ the whole flight. Not that you couldn’t ask him to get up, it just feels all awkward when folks get ‘too’ situated and it is an ordeal for them to have to get up.

Are bags came off the luggage carousel very quickly and we headed over to the express train to the center of Hong Kong. It was all very easy to get to and access. Once we arrived at the center of Hong Kong, there was free shuttle service to all of the major hotels and ours was the second stop. It was all so efficient, organized, and easy to get to our hotel. And Hong Kong felt very safe, even at 10:30pm.

We arrived at the Renaissance, a Marriott hotel brand, that I stay at often in my work travels. The lobby totally smelled like all Renaissance lobby hotels. It was so weird once I smelled that scent, suddenly I felt like I was on a work trip. When we were checked in the lady behind the counter had a very thick accent. She asked me, as a platinum member, what I preferred as a welcome gift. She said, ‘Would you like 1,000 points or would you like some welcome sex?’ I stared at her for a second, my eyes got big. My mind was racing, surely she wasn’t saying what I thought I heard through her thick accent. Then it dawned on me, she was offering ‘welcome snacks’ not ‘welcome sex.’ Phew. Thank goodness!

Our room, though very small, had a stunning Harbour View on the 38th floor. We were laughing that our rooms were getting smaller and smaller. This room was really going to require a bit of a dance around each other. As in, if one of us was unpacking their suitcase and the other one needed to pass by, one of us needed to get on one of the beds.

We heard from our friends, Shelly and Amy T, they had arrived also and were now on the train into the City Center. Our dinner on the plane wasn’t great, so we headed down to the lobby around 11pm and split a burger for dinner. We didn’t want a lot, but needed a little something. After that we headed back up to the room and off to bed.

Oct 20 – Saturday – More Relaxation in Nusa Dua

When we checked into the resort the day before, they set us up with their concierge to discuss all of the activities we could sign up for – everything from sailing to another island to breakfast with lions. Overwhelmed by the options and actually more drawn to things that were 2 hours away back in Ubud, we decided to go ‘old school’ and just relax at the resort all day again.

I was remembering the old days when getting to the resort that was by the ocean, had beautiful lounging chairs or cabanas, and lagoon pools to take a dip in – WAS the activity. You didn’t need to pile on further activities for your vacation and perhaps that is why you came back feeling less exhausted. My last 3 vacations, I have come home with a cold. It makes me wonder if yes, perhaps, I have been pushing things too much on vacation.

Both content with that plan, we had slept in this morning. And as has now become the routine, I blogged a little while watching the Dodger game before we headed out to our new favorite little breakfast spot in town. This time the Dodgers were on their way to a loss that would push the series to a stressful game 7. It seemed to unravel for them in the first inning and they were never able to recover. I was okay to shut it off halfway through and hope for a better result tomorrow.

The walk along the boardwalk seemed much easier today as we were walking much earlier in the day so it was cooler and we now knew the shortcut. The True Food Kitchen cafe was even more hopping today, but had plenty of seating for all. We tried new health ginger shots and I sampled an open faced omelette. It was all so delicious.

Delicious open faced omelette.
Settling into pure relaxation mode today.
Someone’s happy with a Kombucha and Dragon Bowl. Check out the colors in her dish.

After breakfast we walked around the outdoor shopping area for a little bit. I decided I needed goggles as this was going to be my big swimming day in the Indian Ocean and the lagoon pools. I found some $6 Speedo goggles and we also purchased some ‘Frenchie’ flip-flops as our souvenir from Bali. They were only about $5 each and they came in fun colors. We had both been commenting earlier over the irony of our pre-trip shoe selections. Which ones to bring, which ones to leave home, keep it limited. Well, turns out, all we were wearing so far everyday all day were our flip-flops. Note to self, you only need flip-flops in Bali.

Cool! Only 13,898 KM to Los Angeles.

After we walked back to the resort, the rest of the day was spent in the cabana reading, blogging, swimming, napping. Pretty much a perfectly relaxing vacation day.

When you rent a cabana they bring you out cold waters and fresh fruit. The cost for a full day is $12.
We had sent out laundry before 11am and when we came back from the cabana, it was all done and folded in these cute little baskets.

We decided on one dinner out while we were here and booked a nice table at an ocean front restaurant at the St. Regis. They said they would send a driver for us at 6:15pm so we could make our 6:30pm dinner reservation. We were in the lobby by 6:10pm…and waited, and waited, and waited, finally a driver showed up at 6:35pm. We were thinking, hmmm, this doesn’t seem like St. Regis service. I had been texting Farica, and she hadn’t been responding. Hmm, missing Selly again.

All dressed up and ready for dinner. Waiting for our ride so decided to pose with the fancy Indonesian woman.

When the driver finally showed up he was super apologetic. And really all was forgotten once we stepped foot on the jaw dropping property. It was beautiful in every way and there was some kind of fire dance show going on when we arrived. We watched that for a bit and then walked through the property back towards the restaurant that was ocean front.

They sat us at a beautiful outdoor table. We were just getting settled in when, they sat down a family of 4 with wait for it…2 high chairs. The kids were super cute and looked well behaved. Actually looked like they just woke up from a nap. I felt myself stressing over at what point all hell would break loose and they would be melting down.

The perfectly handsome and attentive host from Amsterdam that had seated us and had continued to attend to our table came by and asked if there we anything we needed besides the waters so far. I said in my nicest voice ‘Well, I’m a little disappointed that we are right next to a table with 2 small children.’ He said, ‘Oh yes, of course, let me move you immediately.’ So he brought us to a table at the other end of the row of tables. It felt more tucked away, but at least I wasn’t going to have to stress over the children that were already starting to fuss. Children need to be children, and I will be the first to roll around with them in the ball pit at McDonald’s, just please don’t sit them down next to me in high chairs at a 5-star restaurant. Am I turning into a grouchy old lady? Who knows, maybe I am.

The rest of the dinner experience was delightful. We both ordered specialties and started with salads. Our host also recommended a wine to compliment my dish and it was my first good glass of wine in Indonesia. When he asked if I wanted a 2nd glass, I said yes please. In my defense, these were like 4 oz pours, not that I need defending. Ha, ha.

My main course. I love how the portions here are so much smaller. You just need a small taste.

In the end, they asked if wanted dessert. So far, we had said no to all dessert as I am still trying to stay off of sugar. But on this night, we decided to look. Their homemade specialty ice cream was tempting both of us. What harm could one scoop do? Throwing caution to the wind, we ordered 1 scoop of Vanilla (Amy) and 1 scoop of Salted Carmel (Lisa). I also ordered a decaf cappucino to put a cap on the perfect dinner evening.

When they brought out the ice cream – a ‘scoop’ was generous in terms. It was more like a tablespoon of Ice Cream, which actually was perfect. We didn’t need much, just a taste. It also had a little crumble of something with it that gave it a little crunch. Every bite was savored. I love how when you don’t have dessert regularly, when you do, it seems like a treat beyond compare. It was OUTSTANDING, this ice cream. And my coffee, well, perfection.

My salted caramel ice cream ‘scoop.’

After dinner we walked around the beautiful property a little more before asking for a driver back to our hotel. It was a beautiful and restful  day.

October 19 – Friday – Nusa Dua Beach and Relaxation Day

Our big plan for this day was to rest in a cabana we had rented all day that faced the beach. We slept in and then headed down to the free on-site breakfast. When we checked in, they had asked, ‘Do you want points as your welcome gift, or a free on-site breakfast?’ We picked free on-site breakfast, cautiously optimistic as usually hotel on-site breakfasts have limited selections.

When we got down there, they first sat us at a table that was right by the reflection of a pool. That was too bright for Amy so we moved in a little, still outside under covering, but away from the glare of the pool. No sooner had they sat us at another table, they brought a family with a screaming child next to us. I just looked at Amy, this would be my non-starter for this location. Combined we were like Goldilocks trying to find the perfect spot. I asked if we could be moved inside, they graciously moved us inside.

The breakfast spread was extensive with different styles of breakfast, stations – Western (Eggs, Donuts and Pastries), Eastern (Soups), Middle-Eastern (Steamed veggies, sauce, and rice) and a fruit station for everybody. About zero of it looked appetizing to me. They brought my cappucino, this would be the true test. I can really get by with just one good coffee or cappucino in the morning, forget the food. I bring the cup to my mouth for my first sip. Ugh. Even the milk in the cappucino couldn’t mask the ‘instant’ taste of the coffee inside. Amy brought back a bowl of steamed veggies in sauce and fruit. God Bless her, she can eat a veggie breakfast, not me. She said she had eaten that every morning for breakfast in India and was used to it. I went and had an omelette made for me, and picked up some bacon and fruit. The omelette was good, the bacon was way over cooked, I couldn’t finish it. I was missing the perfect crispness of the Mandapa bacon. We decided we would need to find another breakfast option on the remaining days here. We were in Bali afterall, and we wanted a more Bali experience and less hotel buffet experience.

My blogging spot on our balcony that overlooked the lagoon pool.

After breakfast we went back to the room, I blogged a little (no game on today) and then we started to get ready to go down to our cabana for the day. Why does getting ready to go down to the beach for the day always feel like an ordeal for white girls? After you ‘suit up’ there is process of making sure you get sunblock over every square inch of your lily white body so you don’t burn. Then the process of selecting everything you want to take for the day as you camp out in your cabana. What books? What snacks? How much extra water? Do I bring my iPad? This is about as stressful as it gets on a beach cabana day I guess.

We both loaded up our backpacks and headed down. By now it was 12:30pm. On the way down there, Amy announces, ‘I’m hungry.’ I’m thinking, no wonder, all you ate was vegetables. Then I reflected, ‘Am I hungry?’ Actually, I was. So we made the decision to walk into this shopping district that we could access off of the boardwalk a few resorts down. I had found what looked to be a great ‘healthy eats/good coffee’ place online, and we both had wanted to try it out.

Pretty view of umbrellas from our beach walk on the way to breakfast.

The walk down the boardwalk in direct sunlight with our beach daypacks on our back felt SO LONG. The temps were in the mid-80’s with very high humidity. How high? Let’s just say, my hair is about as curly as it gets absorbing every ounce of moisture in the air. I look like I have a perm at times.  As we walked along the resorts, we enjoyed the view of the sandy white beaches and clear blue water. The resorts looked mostly empty. It seems surreal to see such a strip of resorts ocean front with such little activity. Their high season is in the summer, so they said this is typical.

We finally made it to the shopping center and they checked all of our bags and we went through a metal detector. There were bomb threats in Bali 10 years ago, so they are very high security in these beach areas and with the resorts. Whenever you pull into a resort, they open the back door and check the rear of the van.

Exterior of the True Food Kitchen we found in Bali.

We made it to the True Food Kitchen of Bali. It had lovely ‘Anthropolgie’ feeling decor and open breeze and the most beautiful and healthy menu selections. Even better, then served up a wonderful cappucino. This is what I had been craving since we left Mandapa.

At last, my perfect cappucino.

We enjoyed the lunch here so much and it was easily the busiest eating establishment in the shopping center. We could see this place fitting in perfectly in Orange County. After a leisurely lunch we headed back to the resort and found a short cut so that the walk wasn’t so long.

We both had turmeric/ginger shots that they served with a slice of watermelon and coconut water.
My lunch, I loved this so much. Especially the colors of the food. It all tasted so fresh, healthy and delicious.

We then parked ourselves in our Cabana for the rest of the afternoon. Alternating between blogging (me), reading, napping, and taking dips in the Indian Ocean. It was glorious. The water was clear as crystal and as warm as bathwater. Absolutely no chill whatsoever.

Blissful swim in the Indian Ocean.

We hung out like this until about 6pm (the sun sets around 6:15pm this time of year). It also rises over the water and sets behind us. We considered our dinner options as we headed back to the room. We could go out, dine on property, or just order room service. In the end, we felt tired from laying around all day. Imagine that? So we just decided to take showers, not have to get ready, and order room service.

View of Amy in the cabana we had rented for the day for about $12.

We both picked transitional Balinese dishes from the room service menu and I said yes to Bintang Beer when they suggested we try the beer with our dinner. I wasn’t having much success with good wine in Bali, so figured maybe I should switch to beer.

About 30 minutes later our food arrived, they rolled it in on a cart and set up a table in the dining area of the suite – complete with a little rose in a vase. I had ordered a fish dish with some traditional side dishes and Amy had a Balinese chicken curry. It was outstanding. We loved our dinner so much and I enjoyed the taste of the beer that complimented the dinner. They were right with the beer suggestions.

Day one at the resort was a relaxing success and by now we had detoxed from Mandapa and were enjoying the resort for all of the amenities it offered. Also, the beds were super comfortable and they had big fluffy pillows. A must for a good nights sleep.

October 18 – Thursday – Leaving Mandapa, Monkey Forest, Arrival in Nusa Dua

When I woke up on Thursday morning and turned on the game, it was already half over and the Dodgers were on their way to a win and moving ahead in the series 3-2. As Amy was still sleeping, it was a good morning for me to go down poolside watch the game and blog before breakfast.

My view, poolside, on Thursday morning as I watched the Dodger game and blogged.

Down by the pool it was a quiet and so peaceful and still. I blogged and watched the game while I waited for Amy to wake up and join me for breakfast. Once she came down, they seated at this beautiful couch with cushions and a view of the river.

Last breakfast with a view.

We were mourning a little that this was our last experience here for breakfast. We were pretty sure no other hotel or resort would be able to compare in the healthy breakfast selections or with the level of service. But for now, we enjoyed the last few moments and I visited the breakfast bar and ordered several items off of the a la carte menu that were tiny portions but fun for a little taste.

We would certainly miss these cute ladies coming by our table asking us if we wanted custom health shots.

After breakfast and one last walk around the rice fields, we headed back to our room to pack. We had a little bit of a late check-out at 1pm and it was almost noon.  As I packed, I wondered who was lucky enough to stay here next and again felt so grateful for the time at Mandapa in the pristine surroundings and this room.

Last walk around the rice fields.

I called Selly when we were ready and she arrived promptly. She had our final bill and we checked us out there in the room. Baggage attendants came and took our bags to the car that was waiting to take us to our next destination. Selly let me know that a Chinese family had rented 6 of these rooms and would be there next. Wow! I was trying to wrap my head around a family reunion at this resort and how nice that would be.

Buttons for the heated toilet in our room. I never got more adventurous than ‘full flush.’

When we arrived at the top again. We asked for some time to step out back onto that deck with the vista that they had initially shown us. We took time to soak in the beautiful setting and take some photos before heading to the car outside.

On last look around at the top entrance to the Mandapa village.
Stunning architecture up at the top of Mandapa.

Our driver was waiting with our bags and we asked if we could stop at the monkey forest on the way down to our next destination. He said no problem and that he would wait one hour for us while we went into the monkey forest.

Bye Mandapa, we will miss you!

When I got in the back of the car, I was sitting behind the driver. It was so hot and I could feel myself gagging as he had a pretty strong body odor going and it was going to be about a 2 hour drive to Nusa Dua (with the monkey forest about halfway in between). I wasn’t sure how long I could take it, so rolled down the window to at least get fresh air and tried not to think about it.

Picture with Selly, our amazing butler.

Our driver took us through central Ubud and the artist district. It is such a popular place and there were lots of people milling about the town, lots of traffic, lots of mopeds, lots of color – so bustling in every way. Our driver asked if we wanted to get out and walk around and we shook our heads, it felt too hot and humid outside and we were good just proceeding to the monkey forest.

Monkey butt inspection. Ew!

The monkey forest was outrageous. It is an easily accessible forest park where the monkeys roam freely everywhere – even on people. We both kept saying as we walked around, please God, no, I don’t want a monkey hopping on me. Plenty of visitors were good with it, but it totally gave us the creeps to think about a little monkey climbing all over us.

Monkey inspection and grooming.

Watching the monkey behaviors was hilarious and at the same time kind of intense. We saw a lot of them inspecting each other’s butts including sticking their hand up in there, mother monkeys nursing their babies, monkey family fights, monkey wrestling, monkey babies scurrying all around. If you liked monkeys, it was pretty much monkey heaven and they were very entertaining to watch. Also the park itself did feel like a jungle and it was shaded and cool to walk around. After about 30-40 minutes we were done and I think we wanted to leave then mostly because we wanted it to be before a monkey jumped on us.

Monkey breast feeding.
Cute little monkey.

Onward to Nusa Dua where we would be staying at the Laguna Luxury Resort on the beach. One of our friends had stayed here and highly recommended it.  When we pulled up, it very much had a Hawaii resort feel without the Hawaii music. They sat us down, offered us a welcome drink, and then someone came over to talk to us.

As a Platiunum guest, they said they had upgraded us to an executive suite, but if we wanted – and for $300 extra per night, they could upgrade us to a private villa with a private pool and they showed us pictures. We both said that wasn’t necessary and really we’d be fine with the executive suite. They also introduced us to Farica, who would be our personal concierge and she gave us her contact number. I sized her up. Could she hold a candle to our Selly?

View from our balcony.

They then took us to our room. It was a top floor suite that overlooked the lagoon pools and had a balcony. By any standards, it was a very nice room. However, after you have just left Mandapa, you feel like you need to detox a little. As soon as we were left alone in the room, we looked at each other as if to say, our Cinderella time is really over and now we are back to more familiar surroundings. We both feel we adjust well, and had no expectations for this new place or the setting to even come close. It is just hard to explain the shift we were feeling and a little bit of mourning to come away from Mandapa, and the pristine jungle setting. Yet, still, we were fine and this was a beautiful (even if a little dated – think late 90’s) resort and we just were happy to be here for R&R for the next few days before we hit Hong Kong next week. We knew once we got there it would be non-stop touring and site seeing.

Amy at dinner, you can see the little paper lights all around. The ocean was right in front of us.

After we unpacked, we went for dinner on the property, beach side. It was a beautiful table, there were paper lamps strung around everywhere, and there was live music – a pretty Asian woman singing Norah Jones hits. They brought us a welcome drink and we ordered dinner. I had sushi, Amy had salmon. Both dinners were pretty good and the servers were so sincere. I love the humility of the Indonesian people. Even so, we were missing the magic of the jungle setting of Mandapa and the amazing healthy food selections. We needed to snap out of it. How could we be slightly depressed at this amazing beach resort? Had we turned into Kardashians?

Oct 17 – Wed – Relaxation Day at Mandapa and Cousin Reunion

On this morning I woke up to a few emails from MLB.tv letting me know they had my IP address and would make an adjustment so that I could view the game. I was skeptical it would work, but sure enough I tapped the live feed button and there before my eyes was the Dodger game about to start. I was so excited. I feel like I had cracked a code.

Our plan for the day was another treetop restaurant breakfast, followed by a trip to the on-site gym, a 90-minute massage treatment and redo of our mani/pedi, and me trying to fit the Dodger game viewing in there somehow. I’m here to tell you, I made it work.

We went to breakfast first and were sat at a table that still had a view of the river but also was right in front of the vegetable/herb garden. It all felt so lush with greenery all around. We were so excited to enjoy this breakfast again. Me, I had been fasting breakfast since May – so now getting back into a breakfast routine wasn’t too difficult, it took me about 5 minutes to adjust. Now I was waking waking up every morning thinking, hmm, I need some breakfast!

Veggie/Herb garden that was part of the landscaping of the tree top restaurant.
Beautiful herb display.

We both visited the place where all of the food was displayed to make our selections. I can’t even bring myself to call it a buffet as it was all so artfully displayed. I appreciate how all of the food was covered with lovely little mesh baskets. No chance of even a gnat landing on this food. I tried a few new things on this day and even joined Amy in a wheatgrass shot. The little bottles were so cute. I couldn’t resist. They also had an incredible mango yogurt I thoroughly enjoyed.

Yogurt display. I loved that yellow one in the middle so much, it is the mango yogurt. Oh so good.

So there we were enjoying the peaceful morning, river sounds, birds chirping, cicadas making their special jungle sound and oh HOW NICE, a couple at the table next to us deciding it was a great idea to FaceTime a relative the whole time they were eating breakfast. And you know how it is when you are on a cell phone or FaceTiming – you actually have to speak extra loud so that the person on the other end can hear you over the sound of the river. Say what? After about 20 minutes of this, we asked if we could be moved to another table far, far, far away from the FaceTiming couple. We sat at another table much further in the interior and then glanced over at another couple doing the SAME THING. Thankfully, that couple only lasted about 5 minutes. It sounded like a quick check-in with his dad. What is up with people feeling like they need to FaceTime at breakfast?

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All of the servers seemed dressed especially nice today with the ladies in lace tops and beautiful skirts. As we later found out, it was the day of a big Balinese ceremony. We were encouraged to go watch the procession after breakfast. It was beautiful to see the participants march through the rice fields and through the village in procession.

Procession through the rice fields.
Balinese children.

After the procession we went back to the room, I checked the score and it was tied 1-1. I just wanted to watch a few innings before the Spa Treatment. Amy was getting ready for the gym and I decided I would be skipping the gym and would meet her at the spa. She was cool with that as she was now used to me be obsessed with the Dodgers and this championship series and was being supportive of my viewing time.

View of game rigged up in the room.

Well, the Dodger game remained tied up until the 8th inning when it was time for me to go to the Spa. It was a nerve racking game so I thought, it is just as well. I might as well go get my 90-minute treatment and then find out who won later. So I headed off to the Spa for treatments.

This time they put us in our own private structure for changing with separate areas for the massages but combined areas for the feet soaking. They pre-wash and soak your feet also for the massage. They put salts and flowers in there and it feels like a great way to get started before you head back into the massage treatment room. They also have you smell different essential oils to calm your senses.

Tray next to copper bowl with essential oils and salts for the foot soak.

90-minutes of bliss later, I headed back to my changing area and decided to just ‘peak’ at my iPad to see who won the game. UNBELIEVABLY the game was still going. It was still tied in the 12th inning. So then I got excited to realize that while my girl was going to be redoing my manicure, I could sit against those cushions facing the river, sipping the ginger tea and eating cookies, while watching the Dodger game on my iPad using my earbuds. I was pretty much in heaven during this time. Especially when they actually won the game in the bottom of the 13th inning! That was totally amazing. The series was now tied at 2-2.

After our treatments, we were a little hungry so decided to grab a lite lunch by the poolside restaurant. Once again the food was delicious and the setting was pure heaven. It is so hard to describe how peaceful this property is and all of the spaces they have designed to encourage relaxation.

My post spa tuna tartar lunch.

We both felt tired again, but actually needed to ‘get ready.’ My cousin, Amoris, who I haven’t seen in 6 or so years is in Bali for a month with her fiancé and is staying only 2 miles up the road. They were planning on coming by the resort at 5:30pm for a little cocktail hour with us. There is a place by the pool area called the ‘library’ that serves drinks and will actually tour you through the specialty drinks of all of the Islands of Indonesia. We all knew we were wouldn’t be doing all of the islands, but were each down for about 1, but no more than 2.

Amoris and her fiancé, Andy, arrived at 5:30pm and were escorted down from the entrance in a buggy to the library. We had told Selly they were coming and she was all prepared to receive them when they arrived. We spent about 2 hours with them getting caught up. It was so much fun to hear about their adventures in Bali so far, and their previous adventures in Tanzania (where they were before Bali). They will be heading back the USA in a few weeks, but have been able to stay here for a month renting a house for only about $400 and they get around on a scooter.

Cousin time! So fun to hang out with my cousin who is in Bali for a month with her fiancé. I haven’t seen her in 6 years.

Around 7:30pm we finished up with drinks and they took the buggy back up to the entrance. Amy and I had a quick dinner in the tree top restaurant and headed to bed early. We were both very tired. It’s funny how the more you relax, the more tired you get. Or maybe it was the last several months catching up with us all at once. Regardless, it was nice to be able to walk back up to the room and crash early.

Oct 16 – Tuesday – Relaxation Day at Mandapa

When I researched this place before this trip I was drawn to this description ‘An exclusive journey inside an indigenous Balinese village, providing a sensory journey to wellness and nature. An IDEAL destination for experience collectors.’ I thought ah, yes, that’s me, an experience collector. In the heat of a very demanding Spring at work – this seemed like the perfect escape in the Fall, so I booked the trip.

I woke up on this Tuesday morning thinking about…wait for it…the Dodgers! Ever since the Dodgers entered the playoffs last year and were showing up delivering exciting games, it sparked that 11-year-`old part of me that bled Dodger blue in the days when I was convinced I grow up and marry Steve Garvey. Fast forward 40 years, and unbelievably, I am equally obsessed with the Dodgers and any which way to view these championship games – even on vacation. I had jumped through all kinds of cable hoops before I left, subscribed to MLB.tv postseason, all in hopes of being able to live stream the games on vacation when I had time.

I knew it was going to start airing at 6:30am. So when my eyes opened at 6:15am, I quietly took out my iPad to see if I could make some Dodger streaming magic happen. We are 15 hours ahead of California and the game would be starting in 15 minutes. I looked over at Amy in her bed and she was still sleeping, so it felt like a good activity that I could do quietly as I plugged in my earphones and tried to get the live stream going. As I went to stream, the response from the server said that I was blocked in this part of the world. What? I had my VPN going to hide my location, how could they know. I emailed MLB.tv and waited for their response as I listened to the audio. While the audio isn’t the same – it would have to do until I got a response. The series was tied at 1-1, but it was the first game back at Dodger stadium, so I felt hopeful for my team. The more I listened though, the worse it got – they were on there way to a loss when Amy woke up and I was happy to get away from the game.

Breakfast view.

We went down to breakfast restaurant which was a trip back to the treehouse restaurant. To see it with a daytime view was spectacular. It felt so peaceful and they seated us again at a table with a view of the river. Once we were seated they greeted us by name and confirmed our dietary preferences. They had an a la carte menu and a breakfast buffet. All was inclusive of the cost of staying there. We took a deep breath and couldn’t stop smiling to realize again, this feeling of being here. I ordered a cappucino and told Amy that I would go check out the buffet.

Dream spread for healthy eaters!

Once I got up there, I knew this would be a buffet like NO other for Amy once she saw this. Amazing selections of healthy juices, yogurts, wheat grass shots, almond milk, cashew cheese – all kinds of every healthy thing you could imagine – all displayed artful fashion with little bottles for everything. You could also see a garden beside you as you sat for breakfast, so you just imagined all of this stuff came from the garden. It was amazing. I couldn’t wait for Amy to see this spread.

First breakfast. Yum.

I had an omelette made for me, took some crispy bacon, added some fresh watermelon, grabbed a mango yogurt, and a fresh little granola bar as a start. The display was all so beautiful you didn’t want to miss out on a thing. We thoroughly enjoyed lounging at that breakfast, the views, the attention to detail in everything, and just sitting there hearing the river in the background.

Cappucino. Thank you.

We went back to the room to get unpacked. It had already been made up for us and looked amazing. They put anything on the counter in the bathroom on little white towels. Even our shoes in the walk-in closet they put on white towels. It is odd, how anything on a white towel actually DOES look more orderly. We took the rest of the morning to unpack, do a little quiet time reading and get ready to head down to the spa for the mani/pedis we had booked.

Came back from breakfast to a made-up room with windows open. So lovely. I could have even just sat in the room all day.
Our make-up room service came with this note and little elephant.

When it was time to head down to the spa, it is a beautiful walk through the village and rice patties and down to the river’s edge where the spa is located.

Stone path through rice fields that lead down to the spa.

Once you enter you are greeted and they lead you back into this beautiful spa changing area and show you the lockers, private showers, bathrooms, sauna, steam room, ice fountain, and private pool. We both took showers and put our robes on and waited for them to come get us for our mani/pedis – having no idea what to expect, but trusting it would be amazing.

Setting for first part of pedicure where they soak your feet. River is on the other side of the rail.

True to expectation, they lead us into a double treatment room where it was open air,  you could see the river and hear the jungle life. They had little couches on both sides of the terrace, with copper bowls waiting and ready for us to soak our feet. We both felt like extreme princesses by now and pinching ourselves. Is this happening?

My view of Amy from my couch. A true pinch-me-I-must-be-dreaming moment for both of us.

We sat down and could see each other on the facing couches and smiled. After soaking our feet, they led us back into the room where you could still hear the river and they had us each lay down on a massage table for our mani/pedis. Yes, this would be a first – a laying down mani/pedi. I was absolute heaven and we each had two attendants who were doing the mani/pedis. They all had doctor masks on. At one point I looked over at Amy and laughed. It looked like we were both on operating tables with Drs of beauty attending to us. Again, I thought, am I dreaming? Is this heaven.

View of my feeet in the copper basin.

2 hours later, I was done, Amy’s took a little longer because she had some ‘gel nail’ they had to remove. When I was done, they brought be down into a terraced room at the rivers edge and served me hot ginger/turmeric/blah blah blah something else – but amazing tasting tea with little tiny cookies sweetened with honey. I just sat there enjoying the tranquility and not worried so much that the Dodgers actually did lose today and now were down 2-1 in the best of 7 series.

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Amy joined me 30 minutes later and I said, ‘Just wait.’ Just as it was out of my mouth another tea angel appeared with hot ginger tea for Amy and little cookies. Where are we?

View of post treatment ginger tea and cookie service.

We then talked about the amazing setting of our treatments, the pampering, and then also some of the hiccups of the treatment. For instance, my nails, looked a little sloppy – not that clean edge against the cuticle that you get back home. Also, when they were taking Amy’s gel nail off of her toes, one of the girls was a little too aggressive with the file and was actually accidentally filing a bit of her skin, so imagine how that felt when the acetone to take the polish off hit her skin. Not so good. I looked down at her toes, they looked red…poor thing. We both decided that the mani/pedi ladies back home are the real ‘pros’ and perhaps need to come do some training here. But still – all in all – we would do it all again as it was a 95% blissful experience.

As this resort hits the bullseye on every detail, we wanted to share a little so they would know this is an area of improvement. The spa director came out to talk to us. We were super nice about it – it was more of an ‘fyi, perhaps this is an area of improvement.’ She was so sorry to hear this news and looked at my nails and Amy’s toes. She insisted on making it up to us. She asked if we had anymore treatments booked at the spa. We said we had 60 minute massages on Wednesday. She said what she would like to propose is that today’s treatment would be 50% off and that we should come back tomorrow and they would redo my nails and Amy’s pedi (her painting was also ‘rough’). Also, she would be upgrading our 60 minute treatments to 90 minutes for free. Wow, that was above and beyond to make it right. The true Ritz expereince that you can always count on. We said – this isn’t necessary, we just wanted you to know because we know how committed you are to excellence. She insisted, so we said – thank you, that would be amazing.

After our treatments we decided to hang out at the infinity pool. As soon as we sat in chairs near and umbrella, and attendant greeted us by name and brought us coconuts to drink out of and a basket of fresh fruit and cold waters. Amy and I just looked at each other again, stunned.

So relaxing to sit by and swim in this infinity pool. Water was the perfect temp.

We swam around in the pool for about 30 minutes, it was so fun – like a jungle feeling but no chance of weird jungle insects getting to you. Just pristine beauty and tranquility. Until…the kids showed up. An Australian couple with two girls around 6 and 7 showed up and I knew that would be the end of the tranquility. We want girls to be girls at that age, and they were well behaved, but still – girls do scream and scream and have fun. So after a little reading by the pool, we were ready to head upstairs and start to get ready for dinner.

Coconut water anyone?

We had a 6:30pm reservation at their onsite 2-Michelin star rated restaurant Kubu. A month in advance they had let me know it is in high demand and if we wanted a pod by the river for dinner, we should book it now. By the time I got back to them 2 weeks later, all of the early seatings were booked and we would have to wait until 9:30pm for a dinner in a pod. We both decided that would be too late and we would be fine in the normal restaurant, we were thinking, geez, we don’t need a private pod for dinner, we’ll be fine and happy to eat at an earlier time.

We we arrived at the restaurant, we fully expected to be seated at a table in the restaurant. When the hostess kept walking us towards a pod, we were very suprised to be seated there. We hadn’t expected this. Our little butler, Selly, soon showed up and said she wanted to make sure this experience happened for us so she pulled some strings. Wow!

Dining in a pod by the river.
My ‘in the pod’ dinner picture.

The dining experience and the food itself was absolutely unforgettable. In addition to what we ordered for our dishes, they kept bringing out little chef tastings in between each course. We would roll our eyes back as we tasted the delicacies. When Amy’s main course came of roasted lamb, she couldn’t stop talking about how wonderful each bite was – and it was the best she had ever tasted. I had steak topped with foi gras and agreed my was also phenomenal. The only thing that isn’t great here in Indonesia is the wine or the wine selection. They have so much else going for them, I’m okay to pass on the wine and enjoy the local drink selections if I want something fun with dinner.

Fun dinner drink made with a casacha alcohol base.

When dinner was done, the chef came by and talked very enthusiastically about each dish as we asked him questions. It was so fun to engage with a chef so passionate about his art. He is truly talented and we can see why the restaurant is Michelin rated.

Exquisite dessert tree.

When dinner was done, they called us a ‘buggy’ to take us back to our apartment. We were both ready to go to bed. Selly asked us about any offsite activities we wanted to do, we looked at each other and shook our heads. No, we were sure we didn’t want to leave this oasis for 3 days or ever.

Picture with the chef. He loves his profession and it shows in his culinary artistry. So talented!

Back in the room the turn-down service had occurred and I wouldn’t have been surprised at all if our butler, Selly, popped around the corner and helped us get ready for bed – that is HOW attended to you feel at this place. I’m glad she wasn’t there, as I’m still able to do these things for myself for now, just one day in at Mandapa. LOL.

Oct 15 Evening – Arrival at Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

At the end of the driveway was the grand arrival area for Mandapa. It had an elegant jungle-like feeling if that is even a style. As soon as we stepped out of the car we were greeted by a host who had beautiful flower leis to put over our head. Yes, after 2-days of travel, it definitely felt like a the end of a race when they put the medal around your neck – we made it.

Welcome to Fantasy Island! This is a pic they took upon our arrival on the terrace.

The host led us up onto this beautiful large deck with a vista – there was no check in area or concierge, it was just this beautiful open grand terrace. At the end of the terrace was a rail where the host led us and then pointed down below to all of the different areas of the resort and you could also see the river flowing along the edge of the resort. It was absolutely breathtaking.

Walking out on the terrace towards the ledge with a view.

Suddenly a beautiful Balinese woman appeared with a tray and two welcome drinks – healthy mixes with a wooden straw. It felt overwhelming to take this all in. I felt straight up like I was dreaming and had landed back in the 70’s right into a scene of Fantasy Island. I wouldn’t have been shocked at all if Tattoo had walked up to me and said, ‘What is your wish.’

Side view of terrace that you walk out onto. Gives you a sense of how high you are up from the village.

Then this woman named, Selly, was introduced to us and she escorted us to what they call ‘a buggy’ (more of a deluxe golf cart to take us through the property before leaving us at the room. They said Selly was assigned as our personal butler and would be available 24 hours a day to attend to any needs that we had. Say what?

At the bottom of the resort, looking back up. the tippy top structure was the covered terrace we looked out over upon our arrival.

After she toured us around the property she led us to our room that overlooked the property. This ‘room’ was more of a studio apartment with a living area and a grand balcony.  The tub and bathroom were outrageous. As was the actual toilet. One of those ‘heated’ numbers from Japan that does much more than the average toilet. I knew I wouldn’t press any buttons besides ‘flush’ the whole time I would be there and yet still, I would stare at those buttons everytime I sat down thinking about the different options.

‘Hepi Birthday’ spelled out in flowers.

They also had spelled out ‘Hepi Birthday’ in flowers at the foot of the beds. There was a welcome note, a tropical fruit basket, and a ‘Happy Birthday’ chocolate cake ready in the refrigerator. It felt like all too much to take in. Truly, I have NEVER stayed in a room like this and couldn’t believe we would be here for the next three nights. As all of the other hotels on the trip were paid for by Marriott points, we had decided to splurge on 3 nights here and we were already confident that the juice would be worth the squeeze on the wallet!

Living area of apartment.

Selly took all of our information right there in the room and checked us in personally. She scanned our passports, showed us the safe, and asked if she could start to make any arrangements to make our visit more pleasant, starting with dinner in their casual restaurant as we were probably hungry and tired from the travel. We said yes to that and made reservations for 45 minutes from now. We actually, just wanted a moment to freak out in the room away from Selly. As in, WHAT!?!? We get to stay here? We hit the jackpot, this place is insane!

View of bathroom and bathtub from sleeping area. Big wooden hanging doors slide open.
Another view into the bathroom from the sleeping area. It is so hard to capture the beauty of this room.

We calmed down during those 45 minutes and started to unpack a little before we headed down to dinner. The ‘casual’ restaurant felt like a tree top experience with beautiful lighting and you could see and hear the river below you. They also had well placed lights on the river.  They placed us at a beautiful table right on the edge of the treetop – overlooking the river. Selly said, she wanted to make this possible for us to complete our arrival. Yay, for our butler. Thanks Selly!

One of two sinks with hanging robes on either side.

The options on the menu were plentiful and surprisingly the prices were VERY reasonable. We could have a very nice dinner there for about a third of the prices of our Hong Kong hamburger dinner. We really enjoyed our first evening there and didn’t make it a long night, we were eager to get unpacked, showered, and get a good nights sleep in that outrageous room.

Cool hanging light fixtures beside each bed with a shade behind our head that they draw up in the daytime that brings beautiful natural light into the room.

We felt so thankful for these moments and the thought of the next three days there. It was an easy unpack and lights out. I also took one ZQuil to assure I was knocked out for the night. It usually takes me a few days to get on the right sleeping schedule and even as tired as I was, I knew the chances were high that I’d wake up at 2am wide awake. Amy was headed into the bathroom to shower as I was already getting settled in my bed. I said, ‘I’ll wait up for you.’ I think about one minute after I said that, with the Zquil hit me, I didn’t remember another thing until I woke up the next morning.

October 13-15 – Travel from LAX to Hong Kong to Bali

A 15 hour flight is NO JOKE, even when you splurge a little for premium economy – which we did! After you get through about 7.5 hours and realize, you still have another 7.5 hours to go, you just hope your body will pass out so you are woken up as the plane is descending in the final destination.

It was an unusually rainy Saturday morning. A big shout out to Tim and Joanne who took us to the airport. Joanne took this parting shot as we headed into the International terminal.

We mostly read and watched movies for the first half and ate every time they offered food, not because it looked particularly appetizing, but because it was something to do. I’m still staying true to no white bread or sugar – so passed on the dinner rolls and even Hagen Daas ice cream.

In flight menu – drink selection. Didn’t really order any of this though. Did try the red wine – one sip was enough for me. Not so good. Stuck to water. Wanted to stay hydrated on the long flight.

For the second half, we tried to sleep – and probably dozed in and out for about 4-6 hours. The set-up in the premium economy cabin is a little awkward on Cathy Pacific. In front of you is business class, separated by a curtain and behind you is economy, also separated by a curtain. The bathroom was on the right side of our class of cabin with no way to get there unless we were willing to climb over the folks sitting in bulkhead that were all stretched out, or walk back through premium economy and pass at a galley and walk back up into your class to go to the bathroom. A few of these trips made me wish we were on the right side of the plane.

On one trip, this older Asian lady walked up and the person in the bathroom was taking FOREVER. I was next up. The lady kept looking at my face with a pained expression. Finally the bathroom opened up and then a flight attendant came by us and said, I just need to get in there to change out the TP. So she goes in there and shuts the door and she is in there at least 5 minutes and I keep looking at the older woman uncomfortable. I say, ‘Do you want to go next, are you okay?’ She smiles at me and says, ‘Thank you for being kind to the elderly.’ Aww, that melted my heart and I thought, yes…we need to be more kind to the elderly in our midst, it takes so little. When the flight attendant came out and the older woman tried to enter, the flight attendant said, ‘No, you can’t go in here, this isn’t your cabin class, you are in economy.’ She just looked a little startled. I said, ‘Please it’s okay, please let her go. I can wait. It’s okay.” Begrudgingly, the flight attendant said okay. I felt so protective of this little woman, in some ways she reminded me of our own mother.

We finally landed at Hong Kong Airport and quickly passed through immigration. The airport was clean and they have an order to everything. It’s so refreshing. The hotel we booked was accessible just outside of immigration and baggage claim on what felt like was the airport property.

It was a really nice room and spacious (much more spacious than the tiny hotel room in the Paris airport that felt like we were in a camper – earlier this year on the way to Israel.) We were hungry through. So we headed down to the ground floor and picked one of four restaurant choices to have some dinner. We both felt like good hearty salads. When the salads came, we laughed. They were so tiny – but VERY artful and delicious. Every taste was incredible. I mean the avocado, YUM, like this is how an avocado needs to taste. And yet still, we knew it wouldn’t be enough. So we ordered to burgers (no bun – ha, ha) and it came with french fries – so we had those too. Something about traveling that long in a plane and eating what feels like tiny lean cuisines makes you ravenous when you land. The bill came and our eyes bugged out, it was $138 for 2 burgers, and 2 salads. No alcohol. Just a sparkling and a still water. Okay, alrighty then, Welcome to Hong Kong!

Sparkling and still water served to us in Hong Kong. Wait, are we in Italy?

We headed back to the room to crash. I knew I was going to need to do something about my hair as it was a greasy mess by now. When it was my turn for the shower – I had just planned on using the hotel shampoo/conditioner – as my shampoo/conditioner for the trip was in my main luggage and checked through to Bali. I get in the shower and to my aghast all they have is body wash/shampoo. It’s a combo for both. Also, no conditioner. I had visions of my hair frizzing out to the max, but I felt greasy hair was a bigger offender, so there I was lathering my head up with body wash/conditioner. And guess what – holy moly, my hair looked fantastic when I dried it. I was stunned. It looks shiny, silky, and soft. No frizz. I thought, Why am I paying for so much expensive hair product back home? Who knew, all I needed was body wash/shampoo. LOL. Now how do I find this stuff back home? Is it actually Prell or something like that?

The dispenser for the amazing Bath Gel/Shampoo that did wonders for my hair. Who knew?

We crashed for a few hours (9pm – 2am) and then both woke up in the night. It is so weird to be so tired but to not fully be able to sleep like you want to. We talked for a bit in the middle of the night and we both felt WIDE awake (because back home…well, it was mid-day…that’s why). Finally we tried to crash again around 3pm…and I slept in and out for 3 hours. I kept dreaming about work! Need. To. Shut. Work. Brain. Off. Now.

We both decided to just get ready around 6am and head down to the free breakfast that they said we were entitled to when we checked in. After $138 burgers, free breakfast was needed to start evening out the food bill. When we got down there, the gentleman looked at his list of room numbers and said, ‘oh no, you aren’t on the list for free breakfast.’ I said, hmm, I’m quite sure I am, they told me when I checked in, can you please check again? Then he went away and came back and said, ‘Yes, of course, you’re on the list.’ And he showed us to a table.

The breakfast was buffet style with all of these different stations that offered both Western and Eastern options. Amy even had some kind of brothy soup with noodles and herbs made for her, and said it was really good. Everything was so artfully displayed and delicious. Really good quality and exotic fruit selections all pre-sliced up. Let’s just say,  not your typical non-ripe cantaloupe and honeydew melon bowl that I see at most hotels. I had a little omelet and bacon and fruit (watermelon, lychee fruit, and papaya). It was all delicious.

We hurried and ate and headed back to get through security. Our hotel desk person said to arrive 2 hours before our 10:10am flight, so we did just that. Turns out NO NEED. Even though it was a Monday morning and it was 8:10am, you might think there would be more business travelers. Regardless, the Hong Kong airport was so efficient, we were through security and near our gate in less than 10 minutes. So we had about 2 hours to wait for our flight.

I saw the LONGEST Starbucks line I had ever seen. I was like a Disneyland, Fantasyland right with all of the zigzag ropes to keep you in order. Amazingly, as long as it was – it went super fast. And it felt just like the experience in the US, they write your name on the cup they ask what you want. I spoke so slowly like they wouldn’t understand what I wanted, ‘Hi, can.you.make.a.grande.breve.latte?’ I felt foolish after it came out of my mouth as the guy obviously knew what he was doing and nodded, as in ‘no problem.’ And sure enough, just a few minutes later they were yelling out, ‘Lisa, grande breve latte!’

Starbucks line. There was a Disneyland style line queue to the right. Surprisingly, this line went very fast. And my breve latte was delicious!

My first impressions of Hong Kongers is that they are all so very kind and polite. They offer smiles easily and they are orderly and efficient. I felt very comfortable in the Hong Kong Airport. It was clean and modern and the demographics don’t feel too different from Southern California. Only their airport is 100x better than LAX.

We boarded the flight for Bali and waited to be one of the last to board.  We sat next to a women about our age from Brooklyn. She had been traveling straight through from New York, to Vancouver BC, to Hong Kong, and now to Bali. Amazingly, she looked fresh! Hats off to you sister, I couldn’t even imagine all of those flights strung together without a little rest in between. She said she had only 2 weeks vacation and wanted to maximize every minute in Bali.

As we approached Bali, our plane was early so we had to circle the island about 3 times before we were given clearance to land. After landing we proceeded through immigration easily. It almost seemed like a formality there, they only briefly looked at your landing card or your passport before letting you through. Then we waited at baggage claim…and waited….and waited. It seemed like maybe they had one cart they were shuttling to and from the airplane as about only 10 pieces of luggage came at a time before another batch came. ONE HOUR later our luggage showed up. It literally took an hour for the luggage to arrive. We were happy to see our luggage for sure.

Bathroom stall in the Bali airport. We both had plenty of time for a bathroom break while we waited for luggage. But no wait would ever be long enough that we’d ever want to relax IN toilet. LOL.

A representative was waiting for us in the arrivals area with a big sign that said, ‘Mandapa’ the name of our resort. He grabbed one of our carts and led us towards the car. After the car was loaded we began the journey towards Ubud, the driver said it would take between 1.5 and 2 hours depending on traffic. It was about rush hour so there was a lot of traffic getting away from the airport.

They drive on the left side of the road and the cars have the driver on the right side of the car – like in London. AND, there about what feels like a million little mopeds or scooters driving all around us and cutting in and out of lanes. It is literally like an army of these scooters – some riders have helmets, some don’t. Sometimes you see families of 3 or 4 riding on the same moped. It is all very cringeworthy.

Amazingly, we felt energized and chatted most of the way to Mandapa in Ubud. Our driver would interject every now and then…do you need a driver while you are here?…do you like duck fat?…want to see any of these sites?…as he passed back a laminated book. He also had an extremely long pinky finger nail that was pointy, I just couldn’t figure that out but kept staring at it hoping it wasn’t a personal cocaine scooper.

He was a great driver though and did the job to get us to the resort safely amidst crazy traffic. As we entered Ubud central, a little village-ish town. It felt very Eat, Pray, Love. The architecture is so different than anything I have seen. It’s how I imagine Thailand might look or any other country in this part of the world. Lots of colors and ornamental buildings. At long last he slowed down and made the turn down this tiny ally. Ahead was Mandapa…